Analyzing Daily Facial Skin care Formulations

Skincare formulations have gained significant popularity among all age groups, contributing to a multi-million-dollar market worldwide. The evolving landscape of skincare has moved from simple cosmetics aimed at appearance enhancement to formulations that promote long-term skin health and protection. Despite the growing usage, the regulation and quality standards for such products remain a concern, as many products do not account for potential toxicological risks, such as heavy metal contamination.

‍

This article delves into the analysis of five different facial skincare formulations across five brands, focusing on characteristics like polyphenolic content, antioxidant activity, and heavy metal contamination. The results provide an insight into how high-end and low-end skincare products compare in terms of safety and efficacy.

‍

● Price and Dry Matter Content Analysis

A comparative analysis was conducted on 25 samples from five brands, each covering different formulations such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, sunblocks, and eye creams. The prices varied significantly, ranging from 0.02 to 1.81 €/mL, with high-end products generally costing more than low-end ones. Moisturizers and sunblocks, due to their viscous nature, had higher dry matter content compared to toners, which were the least concentrated due to their liquid consistency.

‍

● Color Analysis of Different Formulations

Using the CIELAB color measurement parameters, the study classified formulations based on brightness, redness, and yellowness values. It was observed that cleansers and toners were typically colorless, whereas moisturizers, sunblocks, and eye creams were predominantly white, with some exceptions like a pink eye cream. Interestingly, a high-end cleanser showed a striking "Ship Cove Blue" color due to a high chroma value, indicating the possible use of specific pigments.

‍

● Understanding Polyphenolic Compounds

Polyphenols are plant-derived compounds known for their antioxidant, anti-microbial, and anti-aging properties. They are frequently added to skincare products to combat free radicals and protect the skin. In the study, the polyphenolic content ranged from 0.008 to 0.542% w/w, with cleansers and toners at the lower end and sunblocks at the higher end. This disparity suggests that formulations intended for leave-on use, like moisturizers and eye creams, are more likely to include beneficial polyphenols.

‍

● Evaluating Antioxidant Activity

Antioxidant activity, measured through the DPPH assay, showed varying effectiveness across the formulations, with values ranging from 15.76 to 55.58 mg/mL. While most formulations had higher antioxidant activity than ascorbic acid, it was noted that the presence of polyphenols alone did not guarantee high antioxidant performance. This finding suggests that other ingredients, such as vitamins and synthetic stabilizers, may contribute to the overall antioxidant capacity.

‍

● Overview of Heavy Metals in Cosmetics

Heavy metals, including chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), nickel (Ni), lead (Pb), and zinc (Zn), were analyzed to assess potential toxicological risks. Heavy metal contamination in cosmetics can result from raw materials or the manufacturing process, and long-term exposure can have severe health implications. The study found that while all formulations were devoid of cadmium (Cd) and cobalt (Co), other metals were present in varying amounts.

‍

● Chromium and Copper Content

Chromium is often used to impart a green color to cosmetics and can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. The concentrations in the analyzed products ranged from 0.13 to 1.61 ppm, with cleansers showing the highest levels. Copper, essential in small quantities, was found in concentrations ranging from 0.11 to 0.96 ppm, with notable spikes in certain high-end cleansers.

‍

● Iron, Nickel, and Lead Analysis

Iron, used primarily as a colorant, was present in all products at levels between 1.53 and 19.46 ppm. Nickel, a known allergen, was detected at levels higher than the recommended 1 ppm in several samples, highlighting a potential risk for daily users. Lead, notorious for its systemic toxicity, was found in concentrations up to 10.79 ppm, with a high-end eye cream containing an alarming 269.56 ppm, far exceeding safe limits.

‍

● Zinc Content and Safety Considerations

Zinc, an important element in skin health, was present in varying amounts, with some products exceeding 200 ppm. While zinc is generally safe, excessive quantities can pose a risk, especially in leave-on formulations like moisturizers and eye creams.

‍

● The Need for Stricter Regulations

This analysis indicates that both high-end and low-end products may contain potentially harmful levels of heavy metals. Despite their widespread use, current regulations may not adequately protect consumers from the cumulative effects of these contaminants. Regulatory authorities should implement stricter limits on heavy metal content, particularly for products used on sensitive facial skin.

‍

● Balancing Benefits and Risks

Consumers should be aware that price does not necessarily equate to safety or quality. While some high-end products showed desirable properties like higher antioxidant activity, they also contained concerning levels of certain heavy metals. Thus, selecting skincare products should involve a careful review of their ingredients and potential toxicological risks.

‍